The metals are done the exact same way as before and after you clean up around the edges, you can go in and add the hazard stripes to the edges of the doors as an added feature. I start this by painting the inside completely and then the outside of the base/door assembly. The wash of GW Black was also carefully applied here (in the recessed area) since the overall area is so flat and I didn't want to run the risk of it pooling up and leaving edge marks. The same edge highlight was applied to the metal area here but much more carefully than just drybrushing it on like I did for the center console.Ĥ. The upper engine was painted metal and then given a soot stained appearance.ģ. A sharp light grey line highlight was added to the upper edges of the fins and any elements that stood out.Ģ. Looking at the picture there, I highlighted a few points:ġ. Here it was on the inset portion of each stabilizing fin. The same approach for the metal is applied to the portions of the fins where you want metal. You would be able to leave the black in the recessed areas in between your pod color and the metal areas to help separate them and add contrast. With all the metals done and cleaned up, you could go in and add your actual drop pod color to the remaining areas. If you were painting the drop pod some other color like red or blue, now is when I would do that. If you are careful, it will minimize the amount of cleanup you have to do, but it still saves time in the end. The whole key is being able to clean up your work with the black paint so that you don't have to worry if you get some gunmetal or silver on the wrong thing. It's worth mentioning that I did not "shake" the blue wash up prior to using it in this case. ![]() A further discussion on Secret Weapon washes can be found here. It's basically how I paint power weapon effects just with different lines. The final step was to go back over some of the dots with the original light blue line color for effect. The whole thing was given a wash with SW Sapphire and the center was wiped clean to give more contrast. The lines were added with a light blue color. I cleaned it up by painting it black first. The center console dome was painted to look like it was some kind of digital map-sphere tracking thing. It doesn't have to be much, just something to break up the huge mass of metal you have. I also went through and picked out a few small details on the console like the odd power cable here and there and anything else that catches your eye to break up the sea of metal. That's followed with a wash of GW Badab Black and then a drybrush of a silver color for some added contrast. All of the metal areas are given a basecoat of gunmetal color. With all the pieces primed, I started on the center console first. ![]() It would only make getting the doors open and closed that much tougher. I did not want paint in there if I could help it. Before I did that though, I made sure to "mask off" the seems around the doors. ![]() I started by priming the whole thing black. I used a combination of black spray paint followed up with bottle black for touch ups to get this model primed. The final construction of the completed pod will be included in a short follow up post since this one has grown to a near impossible size. A few come with the drop pod and that's great if you're running one of those chapters, otherwise you're out of luck. This post will also include how to create a chapter icon for your doors. ![]() The complete drop pod building process can be found here.Įven if you don't magnetize your pod, I'd definitely recommend painting it like this to make it super easy to do. I didn't want to try and paint all the recessed areas afterwards so I made an effort to build it in three sub-assemblies to make this part of the process all the easier. I built it this way I did for three reasons.ģ. Now that I've got this drop pod built and sitting on my desk in three pieces.
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